The Lost Empire – Hampi: Legend of Vijayanagara

Amidst the lush greenery of the state of Karnataka, lies Hampi, a fortified city, once rich and prosperous and known as the Vijayanagara Empire and now a tourist destination. The place is also known as the Group of Monuments at Hampi, located in the Vijayanagara district, in east-central Karnataka, India. The grandiose site of Hampi was the last capital of the great Hindu Empire of Vijayanagar, founded by Harihara and Bukka in 1336. The place was the capital of the Vijayanagara Empire in the 14th century and at its peak in 1500, Hampi-Vijayanagara was the second-largest medieval-era city in the world after Beijing and believed to be the richest city in India.

The city was a thriving hub of trade and culture, attracting visitors and traders from different parts of the world. It was famous for its impressive architecture, which blended different styles and influences. The city was also a center of Hindu learning, with scholars and intellectuals coming to Hampi to study and exchange ideas. The city’s decline began with the fall of the Vijayanagara Empire in the 16th century, and the subsequent sacking of the city by the invading armies. The city was abandoned, and its grandeur slowly faded into obscurity.

Hampi’s temples, palaces, market streets, and monuments built between 1336 AD to 1565 AD make up the Vijayanagara ruins, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The site is a cultural and architectural marvel and a testament to the artistry and ingenuity of the people who built it.

Today, Hampi is a popular tourist destination and a testament to the rich history and culture of the region. The ruins of the city are spread across a vast area and include numerous temples, palaces, and other structures. Hampi is a unique window into the past and a testament to the resilience of human culture and history.

It was a last-minute weekend plan to visit Hampi, I started the 350km drive from Bangalore at 5am. Target was that I will reach Hampi by 10am and use the rest of the day for sightseeing, before returning home on day 2 late in the night. Following are the places I visited.

Day 1

The Royal Complex – The Ancient city has two major areas to discover, 1. The Royal Enclosure and 2. The Zenana Enclosure. Both the complex showcase and symbolizes the grandeur, wealth, and power of the Vijayanagara Empire.

The Royal Enclosure: The Royal Enclosure is a vast complex, which was once the seat of power of the Vijayanagara Empire. It was the administrative center of the empire and housed royal residences, ceremonial halls, and other important structures spread over 59,000 square meters surrounded by high walls. Remarkable structures enclosure in the complex are the Mahanavami Dibba, Hazara Rama Temple, and the Stepped Tank. The enclosure also has an impressive system of water supply and drainage.

The Royal Palace: The Royal Palace was an imposing structure that housed the king’s durbar hall, private chambers, audience halls, and other rooms. One of the most striking features of the Royal Palace is the durbar hall, which was used for royal meetings and ceremonies. The hall is supported by massive pillars, and the walls are adorned with elaborate carvings and paintings depicting scenes from Hindu mythology. The palace complex also included a vast courtyard, which was used for various events and ceremonies.

Maharani Dibba: Maharani’s Dibba is a magnificent stone platform located in the Royal Enclosure, believed to have been built for the queen to view ceremonial processions and events taking place in the Royal Enclosure. The platform is made of finely carved stone blocks and is about 12 feet high. It has three tiers, each adorned with elaborate carvings and sculptures depicting various mythological scenes. The topmost tier of the platform has a flat surface that was likely used as a viewing area by the queen and other members of the royal family. From this elevated position, they could watch as processions and other events unfolded in the Royal Enclosure.

Hazara Rama Temple: Dedicated to Lord Rama, the temple is known for its intricate carvings, which depict scenes from the Hindu epic Ramayana. The temple complex includes a large central hall, several shrines, and a courtyard with a pillared hall. The outer walls of the temple are decorated with friezes and panels depicting various aspects of Hindu mythology.

Queens Bath: It is a royal structure that was once used by the Vijayanagara Empire’s royalty for bathing and relaxation. The bath is rectangular in shape and has a platform in the middle, where the royals could relax and enjoy the water. Despite its name, the Queen’s Bath was not solely used by the queens, but It was also used by the kings and other members of the royal family for bathing and recreation. The outside of the bath is plain and unassuming, but the interior is a work of art, with intricate carvings and decorations adorning the walls and ceiling.

The Zenana Enclosure: The Zenana Enclosure is a fortified compound located within the royal complex secluded area for the royal women, known as the Zenana. The enclosure contains several structures, including the Lotus Mahal, a two-story pavilion with delicate arches and balconies, as well as various other buildings, gardens, and water features. The Zenana Enclosure is surrounded by high walls with watchtowers and is accessed through a guarded gateway.

Lotus Mahal: As the name suggests, Lotus Mahal is a unique and beautiful palace named due to its unique lotus-shaped dome, which sits atop the building. The palace is made of finely carved stone blocks and has a delicate and intricate design. The Lotus Mahal has two levels, with the upper level featuring balconies and pavilions, and it was likely used by the royal women for recreational and cultural activities.

Elephant Stable: Located near the Zenana Enclosure, the elephant stable was to house the royal elephants of the empire. The structure is made of finely carved stone blocks and features intricate details, including carvings of elephants and horses. After the fall of the Vijayanagara Empire, the Elephant Stables were used as a warehouse and later as barracks for soldiers.

Tip: Get a guide, they have a vast knowledge of the area, and they will show you and brief you about the places which as a traveler you will not discover within the royal complex.

It takes around 4 hours to cover everything within the Royal Complex.

Krishna Temple: Built in the 16th century the temple is dedicated to Lord Krishna and is known for its beautiful carvings and intricate architecture. The temple complex includes a main shrine, a beautiful, pillared hall, and several smaller shrines. Despite it was partially destroyed during the invasion of the Deccan Sultanates in the Krishna Temple remains an important cultural and religious landmark in Hampi.

The Virupaksha Temple: Another UNESCO World Heritage site, The Virupaksha Temple is one of the oldest and most important temples in the region and has been in continuous use since its construction in the 7th century. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is known for its intricate carvings, elaborate towers, and magnificent gopurams (entrance gateways). The temple complex also includes smaller shrines and pavilions, as well as a large water tank.

The Hampi Bazar: Just beside the Virupaksha Temple, the Hampi Bazaar is a vibrant and bustling market street. The bazaar is lined with shops selling everything from traditional handicrafts and textiles to delicious street food. The bustling atmosphere of the bazaar, with its colorful stalls and lively crowds, is a must-do experience.

Saasivekalu Temple: The name “Saasivekalu” means “mustard seed” in Kannada, a reference to the temple’s location on top of a hill that looks like a mustard seed from a distance. The temple was built during the reign of King Narasimha II in the 16th century and dedicated to Lord Ganesha, situated on the south side of Hemakuta Hill.

The most impressive feature of the temple is the statue which is about 8 feet tall and carved out of a single block of granite. Ganesha is sitting in the Ardha padmasana posture, with 4 hands, the upper right-hand holds a goad, the upper left-hand holds a noose, the lower right hand is in the position of granting blessings, and the lower left-hand holds a broken tusk, which symbolizes sacrifice. The belly of the Ganesha statue is carved with a floral design, and his trunk is turned to the left, which is a sign of good luck.

Tip: Take a while to admire the details and beauty of this idol.

At this point I had enough for the day, it was time to wrap up the day with one final place to check the sunset before I head back to the hotel.

Hemakuta Hill Sunset Point: Just on the right side of the Saasivekalu temple, the rock is cut to make stairs to go up the Hemakuta Hill. The hilltop offers mesmerizing views of royal ruins, a panoramic view of the landscape with a stunning sunset over the Tungabadra river and rocky mountains.

 Day 2

Started around 9am, the following are the places I visited.

Sanapura Lake – Coracle Ride: Sanapura Lake is a picturesque water body located near Hampi. From my hotel it took about an hour to reach the lake, driving through the rocky hills, green fields, and remote villages.

Coracle Ride – It is one of the popular activities to do, which is a round boat made of bamboo and covered with buffalo hide. It’s a unique and enjoyable way to explore the tranquil waters and take in the surrounding natural beauty of the surrounding hills and fields.

Tip: There are a couple of places to do the coracle ride, I found the lake to be more secluded, serene, and crowd-free. The downside of this place is that it’s a little far from the city. If you have less time on hand, you can do the same activity on the Tungabadra River near Virupaksha Temple.

Anjanadri Hill: It’s believed that the hill is the birthplace of Hanuman, which is a popular pilgrimage. The hill is named after Hanuman’s mother, Anjana, and is considered a sacred spot. According to Hindu mythology, Hanuman was born to Anjana and Kesari and was blessed with great strength and wisdom.

The hill is home to a temple dedicated to Hanuman, where devotees come to offer prayers and seek blessings. Be prepared to take odd 600+ uneven stairs which are made by cutting the rocks and walk through narrow paths to reach the top of the hill. Beside the temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman, the hilltop offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.

Tip: Try to do the trekking early in the morning to avoid the scorching heat and harsh sun. Another thing I learned is that you don’t have to remove the footwear at the base of the hill to go up. There is a shoe stand on the top too. I ended up walking barefoot, as I observed other people leaving their footwear before starting the ascend. There are several resting spots with adequate seating, so don’t worry about 600+ stairs if you are faint-hearted. 

 Anegundi Historic Village: Anegundi village is a historic village located on the northern bank of the Tungabhadra River, opposite the city of Hampi, and It is believed to have been the ancient capital of the Vijayanagara Empire before it was moved to Hampi. The village is also known for its ancient temples, old houses, and scenic beauty. Stroll in the streets of Anegundi to explore the ancient ruins, to enjoy the vibrant culture and the rural way of life.

I also come across the Pampa Sarovar. The legend has that it is a sacred lake because Lord Shiva and Parvati came to this lake to bathe before their marriage.

Chintamani Temple: Chintamani Temple is a revered religious site located in the village of Anegundi, also known as Chintamani Parshwanath Jain Temple or Chintamani Durga Temple. The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and houses a black stone idol of the deity. It is believed that the idol was installed by Lord Rama himself during his exile period. The temple also has idols of other deities like Lord Hanuman, Lord Ganesh, and Goddess Durga.

The temple’s location on top of a hill provides a scenic view of the surrounding area.

By the time I completed my visit to the above places, it was already afternoon, and I was getting a bit tired and hungry. I decided to call it a day and head back to the hotel to enjoy and explore the hotel. In addition, I had planned to start my journey back to Bangalore around 4pm.

The hotel I stayed at is worth mentioning. Evolve Back Kamalapura Palace is a heritage resort located outside Hampi. The hotel was once the residence of the royal family of Kamalapura. The resort is spread across 46 acres of land and offers a unique opportunity to experience the grandeur and opulence of the bygone era.

Overall this was a perfect weekend getaway to learn a explore the rich heritage of the region. The architecture of all the structures found in Hampi is a blend of Hindu and Islamic styles, and the structures are adorned with ornate carvings and sculptures showcasing the magnificent empire of that era.

3 thoughts on “The Lost Empire – Hampi: Legend of Vijayanagara

  1. Hampi is known for rich heritage!
    Well written, helpful for travelers, anyone traveling towards Hampi, please read this blog, i am sure it is going to help you a lot…

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